Uncorking Ohio’s winemaking history

By Mary Malik

According to Jim Sperk of the Northern Ohio Wine Guild, Ohio currently ranks sixth on the list of wine-producing states in the United States.

“California is first, followed by Washington, New York, Pennsylvania and Oregon,” says Jim. “Last year, Ohio produced 6 million gallons of wine, where Pennsylvania produced twice that amount.”

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to make wine in Ohio, Jim says that an Ohio Farm Winery Permit may be issued only to winemakers who meet two requirements: The manufacturer must produce wine from grapes, fruit or other agricultural products grown on the manufacturer’s property, and the property must qualify as land devoted exclusively to agricultural use.

“One source claims that today more than 486 wineries hold that permit in Ohio,” says Jim. “If you’re a regular reader of these editorials, you know I love wine history, and Ohio’s wine history is no exception.”

Wine production in Ohio began in 1801 and grew slowly over the next 24 years.

“A Cincinnati lawyer by the name of Nicholas Longworth was a winemaking hobbyist whose success with the native Catawba grape allowed him to quit his law practice and grow his wine business,” says Jim. “In 1842, he accidentally produced a ‘Sparkling Catawba.’ The popularity of this wine was said to rival most French champagnes and was sold at a price equal to or greater than those imported champagnes.”

By the late 1850s, due in part to the popularity of sparkling Catawba, Ohio was considered the largest producer of wine in the country. So, what changed? Let’s let Jim fill us in.

“The Civil War left most vineyards devoid of workers,” Jim notes. “There was also disease and rot of the vines that saw the industry struggle. Finally, by the 1920s, Prohibition ended wine production in the country. Ohio embraced the Industrial Revolution and moved on to other agricultural endeavors.”

The introduction of European varieties like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernets has revitalized Ohio’s wine culture, which continues to flourish today.

For information about the Northern Ohio Wine Guild, contact Jim Sperk at tinymoonwines@usa.net.